Past the airport the island changes character: pine forest full of peacocks, a bay that holds the bluest water on Kos, and a village that watches it all from a castle-topped hill. This is the end of the island most visitors only see from a beach bed — we take you into it.
Ten minutes past the airport a pine forest appears out of the dry plain, and the moment you step out of the van a peacock is usually already walking towards you. Dozens live here half-wild among the picnic tables. Bring nothing but your camera — feeding them bread does more harm than good, and they pose anyway.
Two ruined basilicas from the 5th century stand right on the sand, their mosaic floors open to the sky. Just offshore sits Kastri, a rock the size of a church with a church on it. There is time for a proper swim — strong swimmers cross to ring the chapel bell; everyone else photographs them trying.
Up in the old village the pace drops. Whitewashed lanes lead to the ruined castle on its hill, where the wall opens onto the whole sweep of the bay you just swam in. A bakery on the way down sells the cheese pies that usually decide what lunch is.
We follow the bay back east with the water on your right the whole way, and one last stop at the hilltop windmill for the photograph of the trip. You are back at your hotel with salt in your hair and the afternoon free.
Yes — the peacocks are a guaranteed hit, Agios Stefanos is shallow and sandy, and a child seat for the Vito is available on request at no charge. The castle climb is short and optional.
Confident swimmers can — it's roughly 100 metres of usually calm water. Your driver will tell you honestly if the wind makes it a bad idea that day.
Around an hour and a half at Agios Stefanos. The schedule is yours though — this is a private tour, so if the group is happy in the water we can stay longer and shorten a later stop.
